1.05 Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4), technical, crystals 6.52 Typically used at 2-3ppm solution. Treatment can be terminated with Sodium Thiosulfate (typical dechlorinator) or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Because not all dechlors use sodium thiosulfate, one should have hydrogen peroxide on hand. Have the amount of H2O2 available before starting any PP treatment. If fish start gasping for air or rolling over, immediately terminate treatment with H2O2 at a rate of one quart per 5000 gallons. If that doesn't clear it, hit it again. See www.koiclay.com/page6.htm for notes about ORP and PP. Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4), reagent, fine crystals 6.57 Typically used at 2-3ppm solution. Treatment can be terminated with Sodium Thiosulfate (typical dechlorinator) or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Because not all dechlors use sodium thiosulfate, one should have hydrogen peroxide on hand. Have the amount of H2O2 available before starting any PP treatment. If fish start gasping for air or rolling over, immediately terminate treatment with H2O2 at a rate of one quart per 5000 gallons. If that doesn't clear it, hit it again. See www.koiclay.com/page6.htm for notes about ORP and PP. Levamisole (Tramisol) 0 Linda N, on the koivet.com messages board had this to say about Tramisol: Tramisol is a sheep dewormer. Very safe and effective for "intestinal worms", not worms in the tank (keep this in mind). Can be used with salt. Also boosts the immune system, which is an added benefit. Judy N is the real expert on Tramisol and she helped me with the dosage. Dosage is one 184mg tab/12.5 gallons. Crush in ziplock, add to a jar of warm water and shake. Takes time to dissolve. Water in jar will be yellow. Add to QT with an airstone and plants so fish can hide. My fish was 12 inches so I switched him to another 25 gal tank after 12 hours to avoid ammonia spikes. Total treatment time was 24 hours. A 100% water change must be done so DO THIS IN QT. More info: http://www.koivet.com/ (look for article in Medications section with above name) which recommends using at .5ppm and says it doesn't harm the filter. Also specifies Levamisole Phosphate as the general use, but only Levamisole as a food additive. I don't know what the distinction is. Acetic Acid 10%, technical 5.16 In Koi Health and Disease (p101), by Erik L. Johnson, DVM (www.koivet.com), Glacial Acetic Acid (not vinegar) is described as a usefil dip for protozoans and flukes. Recommended is a 1ml/liter dip for 30 seconds, every other day for four total treatments. Malathion 50%, technical 5.12 Useful for fluke eradication only. Fatal to Orfe and Rudd, maybe other species of fish. Use only when forced to by a known fluke infestation. Be EXTREMELY careful with the dosage as with any organophosphate (like the similar acting Trichlorfon/Masoten/Dylox). Dosage depends on temperature, water hardness, and cleanliness. DO NOT USE when water temp is above 82F or below 65F. See Koi Health and Disease (p86-87), by Erik L. Johnson, DVM (www.koivet.com) for tips on dosage and frequency. Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (drugstore solution, H2O2) 4.95 Useful for swabbing and for terminating potassium permanganate treatments. Also useful as a dip for protozoans and flukes, according to Koi Health and Disease (p101), by Erik L. Johnson, DVM (www.koivet.com). For a dip use "15ml in 1 liter of water for 10 minutes." No repeats. (Although you may still have flukes in your filtration, etc., of course.) Formalin (37% formaldehyde solution) 5.29 Kills lots of stuff but primarily should be used for saprolegnia, fungus or gill flukes that haven't responded to salt treatments. Uses oxygen during treatment, 1ppm for every 5ppm of formaldehyde (about 1ppm for every 15ppm of formalin). Increase aeration during treatment. A spraybar is a good method of increasing aeration. Recommended to start with 50ppm for two hours and then 25ppm for two more days. Will kill filter bacteria, find some way to keep filter bacteria healthy during medical bypass or bioseed filter after treatment. (Info from Koi Health and Disease (p83), by Erik L. Johnson, DVM (www.koivet.com).) Not recommended for water below 65F. Also, because of oxygen depletion, not recommended for water above 80F. Organics bind formalin as well... might need to use more in dirty ponds. Dylox (trichlorfon) 80W powder 2.08 Organophosphate used to kill flukes. Malathion is a cheaper alternative. The following info from the malathion entry also applies to Dylox: Fatal to Orfe and Rudd, maybe other species of fish. Use only when forced to by a known fluke infestation. Be EXTREMELY careful with the dosage as with any organophosphate. Dosage depends on temperature, water hardness, and cleanliness. DO NOT USE when water temp is above 82F or below 65F. See Koi Health and Disease (p86-87), by Erik L. Johnson, DVM (www.koivet.com) for tips on dosage and frequency. Chloramine-T hydrate (reagent, white powder) AKA BGDX 3.20 Odorless form commonly sold as BGDX. Kills bacteria dead. This includes filter bacteria in my experience. Used for 'gill diseases' according to the bottle. Use one teaspoon (roughly 1 gram) per 100 gallons for 24 hours then do a 100% water change. Advise using a temporary container for this chemical. There is also a handy dosing table on www.koivet.com -- look under Chloramine-T. Chloramine-T trihydrate (reagent, yellow flake) 3.10 This is the stuff Roark did his Viral Gill Disease research with, not BGDX. Apparently more effective than BGDX for VGD/BGD, according to other articles I've read. Kills bacteria dead. Roark's protocol for VGD includes this at a level where fish start to 'tox-out' then backed off a bit along with PP on other days. Read more on his site. There is a handy dosing table, which is not as strong as the 'tox-out' level, on www.koivet.com -- look under Chloramine-T. Calcium Carbonate USP (hyperfine white powder) AKA CalCoForce 2.07 Good for raising KH and GH. Clouds the water for a time. No effect on PH, AFAIK. Sodium Bicarbonate (common baking soda, NaHCO3) 5.40 Good for raising KH quickly. Raises PH to 8.4 but no higher, in absence of other factors raising the PH. Add roughly 2 parts of this for every 3 parts of food, if your system has no other way of replenishing KH. KH is typically replenished through periodic water changes. Sodium Thiosulfate (dechlor) 5.80 Make a 13% solution (130000ppm) for use with US gallons, 3.43% or 17.17% solution for metric. One liter of solution is good for 10000 gallons, or 10000 liters, or 50000 liters respectively. One teaspoon of solution is good for 50 gallons, one tablespoon for 150 gallons. 3.5ppm Sodium Thiosulfate should be good for 1ppm of chlorine, the above solutions will handle a little over 3ppm chlorine (I think; I'm not entirely sure). Keep in mind that ST will bind the chlorine and leave the ammonia when your water contains chloramines. For that reason using an ammonia binder is a good idea when doing large water changes, if your water contains chloramines. You should assume you have chloramines, unless you *know* that you do not. ChlorAmX (ammonia binder) 4.00 31.9mg of ChlorAmX treats 1mg/l (1ppm) of ammonia in 1 liter. Therefore need 31.9ppm of ChlorAmX to treat 1ppm of ammonia in a given volume of water. Salt, fine crystal, no additives (NaCl) 5.83 Useful against lots of bugs. Useful to combat effects of high nitrite. Add no more than .1% (1000ppm) every 12 hours, unless fish are dying rapidly, to avoid filter shock. For large quantities use plain old rock salt in slightly larger quantities, which is usually available from the local grocery or hardware store. Be sure it is just salt, no additives. When using rock salt, you'll need to use larger volume than specified by the calculations based on fine crystal salt. Also, rumors abound about salt not mixing well with Formalin so use with Formalin only when fish are rapidly dying. Program/Sentinal/Lufenuron (tablets for big dogs) 0 Since Dimilin is outlawed, this is what to use for crustacea parasites (Anchor Worm and Fish Lice). One white tablet for large dogs (490mg tablet) per 1000 gallons. Does not harm filter bacteria. Discontinue filter carbon (as usual). Just to be safe, should terminate treatment with 1.5ppm KMnO4 (PP) after two weeks. Usually only 4-5 days to clear the parasites in water above 68F. Telmin (Mebendazole @ 100mg/ml) 0 Like Superverm, deadly to flukes (trematodes) AND MANY FISH OTHER THAN KOI. Also like Superverm dose at 1ml per 108 US Gallons (90 UK Gallons) on Day one, Day three and Day ten without water changes. You should verify that flukes are gone after 10 days. If not, then do a massive (50% plus) water change and top off the dose. Overdosing can cause chemical burns. Don't use if there is precipitate. Won't kill filter bacteria or, for that matter, other parasites. See http://homepage.ntlworld.com/duncan.griffiths//Telmin.htm for more info. Superverm (Mebendazole @ 75mg/ml and Closantel @ 5mg/ml) 0 Deadly to flukes AND MANY FISH OTHER THAN KOI. Dose at 1ml per 108 US Gallons (90 UK Gallons) on Day one and leave for 7-10 days without water changes. May work better when combined with salt. You should verify that flukes are gone after 10 days. If not, then do a massive (50% plus) water change and top off the dose. Overdosing can cause chemical burns. Don't use if there is precipitate. Won't kill filter bacteria or, for that matter, other parasites. Maybe not toxic to koi/comet hybrids. See http://www.koivet.com/ (look for article in Medications section named 'Closantel') for more info.